Why torque lug nuts

1. The first example is a bolt that is loose, with no torque applied — unstretched. 2. The second example is a bolt that is torqued to specification. There is a slight amount of stretch, but not enough to change metal/alloy properties of the bolt and it returns back to its original shape and is ready for retorquing. 3. The third example is a typical of an over-torqued bolt. Note that the bolt has not only stretched but stretched to the point of changing the properties and yield strength of the bolt. The bolt now has a much lower tensile/yield strength and allows the bolt to flex, generate heat and fatigue. A bolt that has been over-torqued will be prone to cracking, shearing, loosening, or breaking off which can result in damage to the wheel and other related components. Improperly torqued lug nuts or bolts can also result in: · Warped brake rotors — brakes grabbing, pulsating or overheated. · Damage to the lug nut seating surface of alloy wheels. · Wheel hub damage — threaded holes stripped out. It is also important to tighten lug nuts or bolts incrementally to the final torque specification, and doing so in the proper sequence.

Your owners manual should have this information if not the service manual will.
It is prudent to recheck the torque specifications after a test drive of the vehicle, especially with alloy or painted wheels. It is possible to falsely torque lug nuts or bolts due to excess paint, debris, corrosion or a tight and binding centering hole over the wheel hub that allows the bolt or nut to come loose after the vibrations and rigors of driving. When installing new wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above. Wheel lug torque specifications are for clean threads that are free of dirt, grit, etc. If applying an anti-seize lubricant, it is important to note it can be applied only on the threads of nuts or bolts. The lubricant must not be used on either seat of the hardware of the wheel. With the seat being the main point of friction where torque is measured, extreme caution must be used if an anti-seize lubricant is applied to the threads as excess can either drip or be pushed onto the lug seat resulting in inaccurate torque values. A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel’s lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown above) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over-torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort.]]>

Preventive Maintenance You Need to or have a shop Do On Your Car

Regular preventive maintenance is probably the most important thing you can do as a car owner to keep your ride happy and save money on repairs in the future. However, not everyone agrees on what preventive maintenance is, what you should do, and when you should do it. Let’s clear that up, and give you some tips that’ll apply to any vehicle. Anyone who’s ever worked on cars or spent a ton of money getting their car repaired will tell you: Don’t ignore preventive maintenance. The basics, like changing your oil, checking your tire pressure, and getting scheduled inspections and work done are like getting regular checkups at the doctor. They keep you healthy and give you—and the experts—a chance to catch anything serious before it becomes a major problem. With your car, that can save you thousands. First, Read Your Owner’s, Manual Pay attention to your owner’s manual. Regardless of the vehicle you drive, your regular maintenance schedule is inside it, and you’ll never fall for old car myths like, “You should change your oil every 3,000 miles,” (unless of course, your manual says you should, and odds are it doesn’t). You will, however, discover how often your manufacturer really does suggest you change your oil (it can vary widely by vehicle), your filters, any drive or timing belts in your vehicle, and more. You’ll even find out whether you’re putting the right gas in your vehicle or whether you’re using the right kind of oil in the first place. Seriously—you wouldn’t fire up a complicated piece of technology or a massive new home appliance without checking the manual to make sure you know what you’re doing. Most car lovers already know how important this is, but it’s still important even for people don’t consider themselves interested in how their car works. If you’re using the wrong oil, for example, or filling a car that calls for higher octane fuel with the lowest octane stuff you can buy, you may run the risk of  voiding your warranty, and worse, causing damage that’ll cost more to fix than you’d save by using the cheap stuff. Preventive Maintenance Every Vehicle Needs. When we covered the ways you can save serious money on car repair, more than a few people pointed out that preventive maintenance is probably one of the biggest ways you can save money—not actively, but in the long term. Spending a little money now on these basics will save you from more costly repairs later on: · Do your own inspection. It’s basic, but give your car a once-over periodically so you catch anything that looks out of the ordinary. Make sure all your lights are working. Check the air pressure in your tires every month or so (and buy a cheap  tire air pressure gauge  and keep it in the glove compartment). Doing so is good for your tires, gets you better mileage, and saves you money in gas if you discover that the pressure is off. Listen for any strange sounds, inside and out. Make sure your tires have enough tread. You can  use a penny to do it, or  look out for the wear indicators on the tire treads. If anything’s out of the ordinary, don’t ignore it. · Learn to check your fluids. Even if you don’t ever learn how to change your antifreeze, power steering, coolant, or even your wiper fluid (although seriously, don’t let someone charge you to change wiper fluid), you should learn how to check those fluid levels. In some cases, you can see the tank level directly, but most have gauges or dipsticks you can pull out to check current levels against a notch that indicates optimal levels. Even if your owner’s manual doesn’t have much to say about checking your transmission fluid or antifreeze, don’t be afraid to open the hood and see if you can find it. If you’re running low, add more (if you can) or get it changed. Most importantly,never ignore a leak. · Inspect and get your timing and serpentine belts replaced when necessary. Many people will tell you to get your timing belt replaced every 60,000 miles or so, and your serpentine belt replaced every 40,000 miles, give or take. Again, your owner’s manual will offer real numbers for your type of vehicle. If you can’t find the manual, look around online. You’ll probably find the actual recommendation for your car. Use it as a guideline, and ask your mechanic to inspect the belts when it gets time to replace them mileage-wise. If they’re still in good shape, don’t bother, but if they’re worn out, get them replaced before they fail. If you wait and those belts do fail, you’ll break down, and the damaged belt can damage other accessories, making the repair even more expensive. · Check your oil and get it changed regularly. Whether your car has a dipstick to check the oil’s color and oil level or  the dipstick has been replaced with an electronic gauge, you should know how to check it. Knowing the difference between clean oil and muddy, murky oil will save you a ton on unnecessary changes and gives you a way to tell if something’s wrong with your engine (e.g. the oil looks terrible but you just had it changed). It’s hard to make a universal recommendation for how frequently you should change your oil, but the answer is—as we mentioned—in your owner’s manual. Don’t just blindly follow the 3,000 mile myth though—for most vehicles it can be as high as 10,000 miles, depending on the oil your vehicle calls for (something else that’s in the manual). · Check your battery and clean the contacts (if necessary). Most batteries these days don’t require much in the way of maintenance, but you should know where it is and check it to make sure it’s not leaking and there’s no mineral or other buildup on the contacts. If there is, clean it off with a battery cleaning brush. It will set you back a couple of bucks at any auto parts or department store. Buy one and keep it in the trunk. While you’re at it, consider buying a cheap battery tester  or  jump starter. You’ll never need to call someone or wait for AAA (or a friendly passerby) to give you a jump. · Replace your windshield wipers when the view gets streaky. It may seem silly, but I’ve known several people who just ignored their wipers until they got them replaced as part of a bigger job. Wipers are cheap and easy to replace yourself. Don’t wait until you can barely see through your windshield. Your visibility is important, and you wouldn’t wait until you saw an optometrist to clean your glasses, would you? While you’re at it, give your windshield a good cleaning inside and out—if it’s hard to see, the problem may be inside, not out. · Replace your cabin air filter. Replacing a cabin air filter is probably one of the easiest things you can do to keep your car comfortable. Most vehicles make the cabin air filter easily accessible and replacing it is as easy as opening a box. You can get a fitting filter at any auto parts store. It may not be critical to your car’s operation, but it’s easy, it makes the ride more pleasant, and it’s a repair you’ll never have to pay someone else to do. · Replace your engine air filter. Getting to the engine air filter may be a little trickier depending on the vehicle you have, but replacing it regularly is important. Your owner’s manual will give you a mileage estimate for how frequently you should replace your engine air filter, but if you can get to it, check it. If it’s dirty, replace it. If you drive a ton, especially in stop-and-go traffic or have a long commute, your engine air filter may get dirtier faster than someone who drives open roads or only drives around on the weekends. If you need help or your owner’s manual doesn’t lay out exactly how to do it (although it should), you can easily find help online. · Get your tires rotated and balanced, and your alignment checked. Your manual will tell you how often to do this, and it’s important to do to make sure your tires wear evenly and your car drives smoothly. You can make your tires—which are expensive to replace all at once, by the way, take it from someone who’s done it several times—last much longer by getting them rotated and balanced. Your alignment is just as important. If you’re fighting your car to keep it straight, that’s a bad situation that’s easily corrected. · Change your spark plugs. If your spark plugs are worn out or covered in build up, your engine isn’t working efficiently. That can cost you money in fuel for one, but it can also lead to a breakdown. It may sound daunting, but in some cases checking and replacing them isn’t that difficult. If you don’t feel like doing it yourself (or it’s a big and complicated job for your vehicle), follow your manual’s recommendation and get them changed regularly—for most standard copper spark plugs and vehicles, that’s around 30,000 miles (but again, it varies – some iridium plugs can last up to 100,000 miles). These are just a few things that every vehicle needs and almost all of them are things you can do yourself. We can’t stress enough the importance of checking your owner’s manual for anything we may have overlooked here, or anything specific to your vehicle. If you don’t have your manual, you can find it pretty easily online.]]>

What is TPMS? Why you need TPMS

What is TPMS? (TPMS)stands for: Tire Pressure Monitoring System Tire pressure monitoring systems (TPMS) are a safety device installed by the factory to alert the driver of an underinflated tire. The most common systems used is a sensor mounted inside the tire to measure tire pressure directly and then transmits this information wirelessly to onboard electronics.

Is it necessary to replace the TPMS sensors when a vehicle needs new tires?

It depends on the age of the sensors. By the time the tires are worn out, the TPMS sensors may be nearing the end of their useful service life — or they may not have enough remaining battery life to last another set of tires.

Does the law require replacing a bad TPMS sensor?

It depends on your state and local laws. There is no legal requirement (yet) at the national level to replace a bad TPMS sensor if the TPMS warning light is on or flashing. That’s a decision the vehicle owner has to make regarding their own safety. Obviously, if a TPMS system has one or more bad sensors, it can’t warn the motorist of a low tire. If any vehicle owner decides not to have the sensors replace when it’s recommended the owner may be asked to sign a waiver stating  that they won’t hold the service shop liable for any damage or injury from improperly inflated tires

Why do you need it? (this is my opinion)

Well for several reasons:
  1. NHTSA-National Highway Traffic Safety Administration ruled that all vehicle manufacturer’s that sell motor vehicles in the U.S must have a Tire pressure monitoring system installed since 2007.
  2. it helps you save on gas because you’ll know when your pressure is low.. low tire pressure causes you to waste gas because of the increased friction.
  3. It tells you when you may need to service your tires or sensors.
When the light is steady, it means you need to have your tire pressure checked. When the light is flashing, it means you need to have your TPMS checked. And by keeping the TPMS in good working order you’re less likely to have an unexpected tire blowout that can occur when the TPMS is inactive or not installed at all. Yes, it can be annoying but in my opinion, that’s a small price to pay when it comes to you and your families safety. If you would like to know more about the NHTSA-National Highway Traffic Safety Administration go here NHTSA And here’s the link for the NHTSA –TPMS-Final Rule]]>

Want to Bring Your Own Auto Parts to a Mechanic? Here are 5 Reasons You Shouldn’t

Looking for ways to save money on car repairs? Regularly maintaining your vehicle – think oil changes and tire rotations – is the best way for an automotive technician to keep an eye on your vehicle health. That way, items that require attention won’t be left to deteriorate to the point of major parts breaking, which could get far more expensive than your budget allows. Just like preventative dental care, regular car care can identify and stave off big, expensive issues. Another way to save on car repairs is by bringing your own auto parts to a mechanic. There’s often a 25-50% markup on parts, and that number will often be lower for high-dollar parts, and higher for low-dollar parts. The markup helps shops to pay their rent, employees, pay for pricey equipment, and to make some money – after all, they’ve got to remain in business, right? So, since it could save you a few bucks, you may be wondering, “can you bring your own parts to a mechanic?” In the long run, it’s actually not a great idea. So, Can You Bring Your Own Parts to a Mechanic? – Here are 5 Reasons Not To: 1.No Warranty

Let’s say you’ve found a great deal on brake pads at AutoZone, so you bring them to the shop for your mechanic to install. Seems harmless, right? Not so fast. If the brakes you bought wind up failing, you are responsible for those parts, because they won’t have been covered under the shop’s warranty. Why not? The shop may not have recommended those parts for your vehicle. Those parts could have been made with subpar materials or might fit your vehicle improperly, resulting in poor performance.

If you bring your own parts, shops can only warranty their own labor. This means they would re-install something that wasn’t installed properly, but they wouldn’t cover the parts you’d sourced within the warranty. Here’s another way to look at it, courtesy of Bob Chandler, Bonded Transmission & Auto Repair’s service advisor: “Would you bring your steak to the restaurant and ask them to cook it?” Sure, you could buy a steak yourself for much less than you’d pay for it at a restaurant, which would never allow you to bring your own. They wouldn’t be able to confirm its freshness and might be worried you’d complain about the taste when they would never have served you that type of steak in the first place.

2.The Shop Could Be Legally Liable for Failed Parts

If a shop had installed a part that you had bought, and that part failed and caused an accident, the shop could be held legally liable. Matt Weber, the owner of Clark’s Car Care, explained that a court will almost always rule against an auto-repair business. They would say it shouldn’t have installed a customer-supplied part whose performance it couldn’t guarantee. Why does that matter? Many shop owners have poured their life savings into their businesses. The liability for installing a part you had purchased, in order to save a few bucks, isn’t worth that risk to a business owner’s personal and professional livelihoods. For that reason alone, many shops will decline to install customer-bought parts. It’s unfair to blame them for not wanting to take the risk of installing the parts you’ve purchased.

3.You Could Be Wrong

Automotive repair businesses invest a great deal of money into diagnostic equipment. They also prioritize continuing education for their technicians. Unless you’re mechanically inclined, you likely won’t be able to pinpoint the issue. When there’s a sound coming from some unknown location, or when your check engine light is on, your vehicle is best left in skilled hands. They’ll be much more accurate in determining what’s wrong, and which part(s) will need replacing.

4.It’s a Hassle

What if you had bought the wrong parts, or if they’re incompatible with additional parts that the shop is providing? You’ll need to head back to the auto parts store, or wait while a replacement is shipped. No need for you to waste time ordering auto parts, and potentially packaging and shipping incorrect ones for return.

5.You Might Not Get the Best Parts for the Job

Auto-repair businesses have long-standing relationships with parts suppliers. Those relationships allow shops to call in favors for quick deliveries from local parts-distribution centers. Suppliers will also often recommend superior parts for the job. Sure, it may seem as though parts suppliers have a vested interest in recommending more expensive parts. In reality, they wouldn’t dare jeopardize an important relationship with a client (the shop) by recommending a poorly-performing part.

Parts supplier representatives receive training on the latest technology. They have the advantage of receiving real-world performance and warranty information from shop owners and operators. The relationship that your local auto-repair business has with its parts supplier is an advantage that the average vehicle owner wouldn’t likely have after having glanced at a couple of automotive forums. Here’s an example of Tuan, a vehicle owner who had requested OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts for his Subaru. The shop owner had recommended a part that performs better and longer than his vehicle manufacturer’s parts.

Original Article: https://www.openbay.com/blog/5-reasons-not-bring-parts-mechanic/?utm_source=jfnews_sp]]>