Automotive Repair – Hammond Auto Store

The Importance of Getting Your Brakes Checked

Cars are made up of many different working parts. Aside from the ignition, none of them are as important as the braking system. Imagine having a car without brakes, talk about a nightmare. As vital as they are, keep in mind that your brakes are not designed to last forever. In fact, the more you drive, the more frequently you should have your brakes inspected. It’s a good idea to understand the importance of getting your brakes checked.

Why It Matters

Getting your brakes checked and inspected matters a lot. As everything does with age, your brakes will start to wear out over time, which reduces their efficiency. Among the major reasons for car accidents, car failure is often cited. When your brakes fail, you’ll lose all control and not be able to stop your car from crashing. This may be a sign, fire hydrant, road barrier, or even another car. Not only do you become a substantial risk to yourself and other drivers, but driving on faulty brakes can cause irreparable damage to your vehicle.

What to Look Out For

Unless someone’s clipped your brake fluid line (very rare, by the way), brakes don’t just suddenly fail one day without warning. There are plenty of signs that indicate your brakes are starting to malfunction. If you start to notice any of these symptoms, head straight to a mechanic to get your brakes tested:

noises like grinding and squealing

brake light turning on
car wobbling and scraping when you hit the brakes
brake pedal feels too “soft”
leaking brake fluid starts leaking
vehicle bounces up and down when you stop
burning smell while driving

Keep in mind that with regular inspection, you can ward off potentially dangerous issues. Faulty brakes can stop working without notice, so it is important to be proactive. However, if you notice tell-tale signs of brake malfunction while driving, get your brakes inspected as soon as possible.

Repair or Replace

Once your mechanic has identified the issue, you have two options; you can repair your brakes or invest in new ones. These two choices have their pros and cons, but it is really all up to what you think is best. If the problem is not too severe, then a simple repair may do the trick. However, if your brakes are heavily damaged, then you are better off replacing them.

It’s always a good idea to have a trusted mechanic help you assess the damage to see which choice is best for you. Your brakes are one of the biggest safety features in your car. If they go out, your life and the lives of others can be put at risk. If you suspect that your brakes are acting up, have them checked before you do anything else. Having properly working brakes is vital, and they can protect not only you but other drivers on the road.

Here’s another article you might like: The Most Common Car Damages Caused By Collisions

How to Protect Your Car From Hazardous Winter Conditions

Winter can be a very dangerous time of the year for driving. The cold temperatures and snowfall can make it so that other than driving safely, you also need to care for your car. The winter can be hard on any vehicle so we’re going to take a quick look at three concerns to pay attention to during the winter months.

Salt

Many communities apply salt to the roads to get rid of snow and ice. While it is effective in helping to keep the roads clear, salt can also damage your car’s paint job and undercarriage. You may not realize how much salt is laid down on the road until you see it all over your car. Salt is corrosive to metal so as the snow melts off of your car, the moisture further speeds up the rusting of metal. If you keep your car inside a heated garage, then the combination of salt, moisture, and warmth will accelerate the process of corrosion. Keeping the salt washed off of your car will go a long way to combat the corroding process. Make sure to wash the undercarriage of your car. Left alone, the salt could eat away the metal underneath your car, weakening the structural integrity and shortening the lifespan of your vehicle.

Damaged Roads

When the weather changes, it can affect the roads and cause poor conditions and potholes to form. Potholes can cause several problems to your car, so drive with caution around those areas. Hitting a pothole can knock the steering alignment out of adjustment. You may feel that your car is trying to pull to one side. Potholes can damage tires and bend rims. It is a good idea to pull over and check your tires after hitting a pothole hard. A hard jolt from hitting a pothole can also break ball joints and cause damage to your shocks. If you notice new noises or vibrations after hitting a pothole, have your mechanic check it out.

Your Battery

Cold weather reduces the battery’s capacity and ability to start your car. To keep from getting stuck with a dead battery during the winter, have your battery checked before winter sets in. If possible, park your car overnight in a warm spot. Make sure to turn off all electrical accessories before turning off your car. This will keep the battery from having to support them while trying to start your car. Keep a set of jumper cables in your car. You may want to invest in a battery pack designed to start your car in case of a dead battery.

Winter conditions can be rough on your car. However, all you need to do is be attentive to a few preventive measures. By doing this, you can help your car get through the winter reliably and in great shape.

If winter conditions have taken a toll on your car, schedule an appointment today and let me come to you!

Here Are the Most Common Car Damages Caused by Collisions

Anyone who’s suffered a car crash will tell you that even the tiniest of hits can cause major damage. Cars are built to protect passengers in case of an accident, which sometimes means they take more exterior damage to prevent harm to those who are inside. However, there are areas of a car more prone to damage than others.

Bumper Damage

Although both front and back bumpers can be damaged in a collision, front bumpers seem to take the most hits. As a result, according to Impact Auto Body, a third of all vehicular damage is to the front bumper. You can damage your bumper by hitting another car, a tree, an animal or even just a high hill or snowbank. If your bumper is damaged, it will either be repaired or replaced. Repairs will be made depending on the type and severity of the damage. Scratches can be buffed out or painted over, while dents have to put pulled or hammered out.

Dented Doors

Door denting is another common type of vehicle damage. If someone hits you in the side, it’s a safe bet your door will suffer some damage. According to the Law Offices of Gary S. Greenberg, while the extent of the damage typically varies based on speed, the sheer size of commercial trucks makes them capable of doing the most damage to a car and the people inside. However, small cars can do some real damage, as well. The extent of the damage to your door will be the main factor in deciding on repairs. If you are hit by commercial trucks and your car isn’t totaled, the doors often have to be replaced entirely. If hit by a smaller vehicle, the dents can sometimes be pulled or hammered out, and the doors are sanded down and repainted.

Broken Headlights

Just about any type of collision to the front half of the car will result in a broken headlight. The good news is headlights are relatively inexpensive, which means they’re almost always replaced rather than repaired. Oftentimes, the place where you purchase your headlight will install them for you for free, or as Car and Driver says, you can do it yourself.

Damaged Windshield

Like dented doors, the severity of the damage to your windshield will determine whether it’ll be replaced or repaired. Shattered windshields or windshields that have a crack all the way across will likely need to be replaced entirely. Smaller dings, spider web cracks, and other minuscule damages can be fixed by glass repair professionals. Many companies even offer the option of coming to your place of business and fixing your windshield while you work!

Wheel Damage

Because there is a tire on every corner of your vehicle, no matter where you’re hit, a tire is usually hit, as well, and they often sustain damage. A bad collision can knock wheels off their axes, rupture tires, or dent or can cause irreparable damage to your wheel wells. Wheels also take damage from everyday wear and tear. When damaged, if they can’t be patched or realigned, they’re replaced.

If your car has suffered any of the damages mentioned above, you aren’t alone. Car accidents happen every day and almost all result in some type of damage. Just do your research and see what kind of repair and replacement options are available to you.

If your car needs fixes on the inside rather than the outside as the result of a crash or any other circumstance, contact me and I’ll bring the car repair services to you!

Evap system – What is it?

What is an evap leak

An EVAP leak is a fault in the evaporative emission control system (EVAP). It means a leak has been detected. The (EVAP) emission control system prevents the escape of fuel vapors from a vehicle’s fuel system. Fuel vapors are routed by hoses to a charcoal canister for storage. This keeps air pollution down and keeps the smell of fuel from reaching the inside of your vehicle

In the golden age of automotive manufacturing, engineers didn’t need to concern themselves with trivial design aspects such as containing fuel vapor. Evaporating fuel from the gas tank was simply vented to the atmosphere. Then along came the 1970s, bringing bell bottoms and the first steps toward environmental control systems. We were just figuring out that evaporated fuel was not so good for the environment. Hence the need for modern designs to capture, store and redistribute fuel vapor.

So we have the evaporative emission control system (EVAP) while the engine is running, and under predetermined circumstances, the stored, evaporated vapor is moved from the charcoal canister back to be slowly burned by the engine. This is called the purge system. Multiple sensors monitor the purge system as well as looking for leaks. There are large leaks such as a loose gas cap and there are small leaks such as a cracked canister or delivery hose.

The most common cause of an EVAP leak warning, or the Check Engine Light, is the gas cap not being closed properly. If the cap is not fully tightened or closed all the way, the Check Engine Light may come on.

If the gas cap is on correctly, there may be a more serious issue, such as a leak in the fuel system. Other issues could be a faulty vent o-ring seal, defective leak detection pump, defective purge valve, or another small leak somewhere in the EVAP system.

Why should I fix it

There are municipalities that require your car pass emission testing and even if you’re not required to pass testing there are the safety reasons for getting the leak fixed the vapors can and do get inside the car which can make you sick

Fuel vapors are emitted from the vehicle any time there is gasoline in the tank. So if you have a leak, even if you are not driving the vehicle, those vapors are polluting the air 24 hours a day. Uncontrolled emissions like this account for about 20 percent of the pollution produced by vehicles.

Is my car safe to drive with an evap leak

While it is safe to drive with an EVAP leak, you should get the leak repaired right away. If your Check Engine Light comes on, check to make sure the gas cap on your vehicle is securely fastened. If that doesn’t solve the problem, contact a shop or a mobile technician to inspect the EVAP system. It takes a professional to troubleshoot and repair an EVAP leak.

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Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) – What"s it do and How it works

How a mass air flow sensor works (my view) The MAF (mass air flow) sensor is mounted in a vehicle’s engine air intake tract and its job is to measure the volume and density of air being drawn into the engine. The MAF (mass air flow) sensor is basically a little heater which heats up to a predetermined temperature that is monitored by the PCM when the PCM detects that the actual MAF sensor temperature is not within the predetermined expected range of the calculated MAF value it sets a Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination (a.k.a. check engine light) How a mass air flow sensor really works A mass air flow sensor has a small electrically heated wire (hot wire) and a small temperature sensor installed close to the hot wire. The temperature sensor measures the temperature of the air near the hot wire. When the engine is idling, a very little air flows pass the hot wire, so it takes very small electrical current to keep the wire hot. When you press the gas, the throttle opens allowing more air to flow over the hot wire. The passing air cools the hot wire down; the more air flows over the wire, the more electrical current is needed to keep it hot. The amount of this electrical current is proportional to the amount of the air flow. A small electronic chip installed inside the air flow sensor translates the amount of this electrical current into a digital signal that is sent to the engine computer (PCM). The PCM uses the air flow signal to calculate the proper amount of fuel injected into the cylinders in order to keep the air/fuel ratio at the optimal level. This is needed to keep the exhaust emissions low without sacrificing the engine performance. In addition, the PCM uses the air flow readings to determine the shift points of the automatic transmission; so if the air flow sensor doesn’t work properly, the automatic transmission might shift gears differently. Note: Some MAF sensors also incorporate an air intake temperature sensor, which is another value used by the PCM for optimal engine operation. Closely related MAF circuit trouble codes include: ⦁ P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow “A” Circuit Malfunction ⦁ P0101 MAF Circuit Range/Performance ⦁ P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow “A” Circuit Low Input ⦁ P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow “A” Circuit High Input ⦁ P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow “A” Circuit Intermittent Note: other codes may be present if you have P0100 codes. You may have misfire codes or O2 sensor codes, so it’s important to take a “big picture” look at how the systems work together and effect each other when doing a diagnosis. P0100 codes Symptoms may include ⦁ Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination (a.k.a. check engine light) ⦁ Rough running engine ⦁ Black smoke from tail pipe ⦁ Stalling Engine hard start or stalling after it starts ⦁ Possible other driveability symptoms Possible Causes ⦁ Dirty or contaminated mass air flow sensor ⦁ Failed MAF sensor Intake air leaks ⦁ MAF sensor electrical harness or wiring problem (open, shorted, frayed, poor connection, etc.) ⦁ Clogged catalytic converter on some models (GMC/Chevrolet mainly)]]>

Want to Bring Your Own Auto Parts to a Mechanic? Here are 5 Reasons You Shouldn’t

Looking for ways to save money on car repairs? Regularly maintaining your vehicle – think oil changes and tire rotations – is the best way for an automotive technician to keep an eye on your vehicle health. That way, items that require attention won’t be left to deteriorate to the point of major parts breaking, which could get far more expensive than your budget allows. Just like preventative dental care, regular car care can identify and stave off big, expensive issues. Another way to save on car repairs is by bringing your own auto parts to a mechanic. There’s often a 25-50% markup on parts, and that number will often be lower for high-dollar parts, and higher for low-dollar parts. The markup helps shops to pay their rent, employees, pay for pricey equipment, and to make some money – after all, they’ve got to remain in business, right? So, since it could save you a few bucks, you may be wondering, “can you bring your own parts to a mechanic?” In the long run, it’s actually not a great idea. So, Can You Bring Your Own Parts to a Mechanic? – Here are 5 Reasons Not To: 1.No Warranty

Let’s say you’ve found a great deal on brake pads at AutoZone, so you bring them to the shop for your mechanic to install. Seems harmless, right? Not so fast. If the brakes you bought wind up failing, you are responsible for those parts, because they won’t have been covered under the shop’s warranty. Why not? The shop may not have recommended those parts for your vehicle. Those parts could have been made with subpar materials or might fit your vehicle improperly, resulting in poor performance.

If you bring your own parts, shops can only warranty their own labor. This means they would re-install something that wasn’t installed properly, but they wouldn’t cover the parts you’d sourced within the warranty. Here’s another way to look at it, courtesy of Bob Chandler, Bonded Transmission & Auto Repair’s service advisor: “Would you bring your steak to the restaurant and ask them to cook it?” Sure, you could buy a steak yourself for much less than you’d pay for it at a restaurant, which would never allow you to bring your own. They wouldn’t be able to confirm its freshness and might be worried you’d complain about the taste when they would never have served you that type of steak in the first place.

2.The Shop Could Be Legally Liable for Failed Parts

If a shop had installed a part that you had bought, and that part failed and caused an accident, the shop could be held legally liable. Matt Weber, the owner of Clark’s Car Care, explained that a court will almost always rule against an auto-repair business. They would say it shouldn’t have installed a customer-supplied part whose performance it couldn’t guarantee. Why does that matter? Many shop owners have poured their life savings into their businesses. The liability for installing a part you had purchased, in order to save a few bucks, isn’t worth that risk to a business owner’s personal and professional livelihoods. For that reason alone, many shops will decline to install customer-bought parts. It’s unfair to blame them for not wanting to take the risk of installing the parts you’ve purchased.

3.You Could Be Wrong

Automotive repair businesses invest a great deal of money into diagnostic equipment. They also prioritize continuing education for their technicians. Unless you’re mechanically inclined, you likely won’t be able to pinpoint the issue. When there’s a sound coming from some unknown location, or when your check engine light is on, your vehicle is best left in skilled hands. They’ll be much more accurate in determining what’s wrong, and which part(s) will need replacing.

4.It’s a Hassle

What if you had bought the wrong parts, or if they’re incompatible with additional parts that the shop is providing? You’ll need to head back to the auto parts store, or wait while a replacement is shipped. No need for you to waste time ordering auto parts, and potentially packaging and shipping incorrect ones for return.

5.You Might Not Get the Best Parts for the Job

Auto-repair businesses have long-standing relationships with parts suppliers. Those relationships allow shops to call in favors for quick deliveries from local parts-distribution centers. Suppliers will also often recommend superior parts for the job. Sure, it may seem as though parts suppliers have a vested interest in recommending more expensive parts. In reality, they wouldn’t dare jeopardize an important relationship with a client (the shop) by recommending a poorly-performing part.

Parts supplier representatives receive training on the latest technology. They have the advantage of receiving real-world performance and warranty information from shop owners and operators. The relationship that your local auto-repair business has with its parts supplier is an advantage that the average vehicle owner wouldn’t likely have after having glanced at a couple of automotive forums. Here’s an example of Tuan, a vehicle owner who had requested OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts for his Subaru. The shop owner had recommended a part that performs better and longer than his vehicle manufacturer’s parts.

Original Article: https://www.openbay.com/blog/5-reasons-not-bring-parts-mechanic/?utm_source=jfnews_sp]]>

Diagnosing automotive intoxication in a Chevy Avalanche

John Anello[/caption] Posted By: Albert B Hammond – Written By:John Anello Just when I thought I’d seen everything there is to see! A 2008 Chevy Avalanche (Figure 1), with a 5.3 liter automatic engine, was setting codes P0172 and P0175 (System rich, banks 1 and 2). This vehicle, which had 94,000 on the odometer, had this problem for well over a year according to the vehicle owner and there were times the spark plugs would foul to a point where the engine would experience an engine misfire. The fix at that point was to pull the spark plugs, replace them, clear the codes and head down the road for another few months. The shop had already replaced the MAF sensor and a suspected #1 injector thinking the rich condition was being caused from a shift in MAF calculations or a leaky injector on the #1 cylinder. This however did not resolve the customer’s ongoing issue.

Figure 1

The owner of the vehicle was very anxious to get the car resolved especially with an overdue inspection sticker on the windshield. The truck was not running well, and he thought he now had cylinder head problems because of all the carbon buildup from the prolonged rich operation and add to the fact that many people had told him that these trucks were known for bad valve guides. All the avenues had been exhausted trying to resolve his problem so he convinced the garage to perform a valve job on his truck. The garage was against it but the customer was persistent and willing to foot the bill so the cylinder heads were pulled to have a valve job done. The heads were visually examined and the shop was able to see the carbon buildup on the #1 cylinder but the other 3 cylinders on the same head did not seem bad (Figure 2). The spark plugs that came out of the engine did have black carbon on them but the #1 cylinder showed heavier deposits. The shop sent the cylinder heads out for repair and by later in the week the truck was reassembled and released to the customer.

Figure 2

Well, that didn’t work. The valve job did not resolve the issue and the customer was soon back within a week with the CEL lamp on again. At this point I was now thrown into the mix to unravel the shop’s dilemma. When I arrived at the shop I hooked up my scan tool to check the fuel trims with the engine fully warmed up. This would give me an indication of what the ECM was actually doing to control the fuel. The engine was not running smooth and it had a slight rough idle. The Long Term Fuel Trims were down around negative 26 and yet both the upper O2 sensors were still seeing a rich operation (Figure 3). The ECM was having a hard time in acheiving O2 switching. The whole concept of fuel control is to achieve a constant high to low switching state above and below 500 mv. The Short Term Fuel Trim will constantly move inversely l to the O2 sensor. When the O2 goes low the Short Term will go positive. When the O2 goes high the Short Term will go negative. The Short Term will eventually drive the Long Term Fuel Trim slowly to a final acceptable value of plus/minus 5 percent to 10 percent. Once the Long Term trims exceeds plus/minus 15 percent the ECM will usually set a code on most systems. I pulled the brake booster line to see if the O2 sensors would respond to a major lean condition to rule out O2 sensor failure and their readings did go below 500 millivolts. At this point I was convinced that excess fuel was coming from somewhere or the truck had a sensor that was out of range.

Figure 3

Figure 4

I next viewed some basic raw data with the engine running such as coolant and air temperature, Mass Air Flow, Throttle Position, Accelerator Position, Manifold and Barometric Pressures to see if everything was reading within reason (Figure 4). At idle, I typically expect 1 gram per liter of engine displacement per second for the MAF reading. This was a 5.3L engine, so the 7 g/sec at idle was not too far off and the other sensors all seemed to be within spec. I was looking for something that could really add some fuel such as leaky injectors, high fuel pressure or a leaky purge valve. So I first disconnected the purge valve line at the left side of the engine just above the ignition coils (Figure 5) but this did not have any effect on the rich operation. I even placed a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and measured the pressure, finding it within the spec of 60P.S.I. and when I turned the engine off the fuel pressure held without any signs of leakdown.

I was puzzled to how this engine was getting more fuel then it could handle. I had to start thinking out of the box to find something out of the ordinary. I did run across a vehicle a while back where a shop replaced a 5.3L ECM with a used 6.0L ECM. Both ECMs had the same hardware numbers but different software and the engine ran but was being over fueled. I pulled up the ECM info on the scan tool (Figure 6) but the VIN and software for this vehicle was correct. My next thought was to try and reset the Fuel Trims back to zero just in case the ECM was correcting for an old problem that was no longer there. Simply clearing codes or disconnecting a battery does no always guarantee resetting the fuel trims. Many learned adaptations can be stored in a Non-Volatile Memory than can only be reset using a scan tool function. I proceeded to the Fuel Trim Reset function in the scan tool and reset the learned fuel trims back to zero. I ran the vehicle and the upper O2 sensors were still seeing a rich condition so the ECM began to ratchet down the trim values again. This car had something unusual going on and it all pointed to a possible Engine Control Module issue but I wasn’t too quick to just go ahead and try one.

Figure 6

What was I facing? I had to venture out on the internet hoping that someone out there had a piece of the puzzle to this head scratching issue. My diagnostic paths of approach kept hitting dead ends without any reasonable clues to grow on. We live in a cyber world where information is now at our fingertips so I opted to Google my problem. I came across an issue about a Flex Fuel problem where you had to go in and reset the Flex Fuel alcohol counter if the ECM calculation was flawed somehow. I was unaware that this truck was Flex Fuel so it was not something I would have even given thought in my diagnostic process. I went back into the scan tool to dig for the feature and there it was – “Fuel Compensation Reset.” I proceeded to the function screen and was in shock to see a calculated Fuel Alcohol Content of 73 percent! How was it that this vehicle was calculating 73 percent alcohol mixture? How was this abnormally high reading possible if the owner never used anything but straight up gas? Did he accidentally pull up to an E85 station and fill up with the wrong stuff? Was this some type of driverless vehicle that went out on the town for for a night of drinking? There are many unanswered questions here but by simply resetting the alcohol content back to 3 percent default (Figure 9) and resetting the fuel trims again the vehicle was back in fuel control and ran like a champ (Figure 10)! Now I needed answers as to how this counter had gotten so high in the first place.

Figure 9

Figure 10

The Flex Fuel vehicles have been around since the late 90s and are designed to handle the 85 percent alcohol to 15 percent gas mixture. The alcohol used is an ethanol made primarily from corn but it can also be made from a variety of starch or sugary crops including potatoes, sugar cane, beets or even organic cabbage. Vehicles using E85 usually have specially lined gas tanks and have fuel system components that can handle the alcohol. The claim is you get a little more torque and horsepower and higher Octane ratings of up near 105. The alcohol does burn cooler and cleaner than gasoline. The downside is that you will need more of a gas mixture in colder climate that can vary from 25 percent to 30 percent mix of gas to aid in cold weather starting. Also alcohol has a lower BTU rating than gasoline so the fuel air ratio has to be bumped down from the norm of 14.7-1 to a low of 9.7-1 thus the reason why an onboard controller has to run a richer mixture and as a result your gas mileage is lower. Most cars since 1995 without Flex Fuel can handle 10 percent alcohol in their system because they are built to handle it but put that amount of alcohol in an older car and you’re asking for trouble that can lead to corroded components, damaged seals or severe fuel pump/engine damage. Today’s non Flex Fuel cars can handle up to 15 percent alcohol. This gives the gas companies more reason to “Stretch the Soup” just to meet their needs. Pulling up to a gas station today be sure to read the warning of alcohol content in the gas you buy (Figure 11). It would be nice if the fueling station would just offer you an option at the pumps to have a shot of alcohol to drink or just have you directly place it in your tank. There are some countries such as Brazil that will use a full concentration E100 alcohol for their specially designed vehicles where cold starting issues are not a factor. They will usually denature the mix with 2 percent of gas or Iso-propyl to keep people from trying to drink it!

Figure 11

This Avalanche does not use a direct Flex Fuel sensor to measure the alcohol content but rather Fuel Trim algorithms to adjust the alcohol calculation. If this truck were ever to experience a lean condition the ECM could easily mistake the lean condition for an increase of alcohol in the gas and miscalculate the mixture. When filling the tank with E85 you are supposed to do it on a warmed up engine ONLY and after a fill up you are supposed to drive the vehicle a minimum of seven miles to recalculate the mixture. If you fill the tank and immediately park the car and let it sit for too long the ECM with calculate the mixture on warmup the next key cycle and cause a higher than normal alcohol mixture content value. I can tell you that the owner had this problem since the day he purchased the vehicle from a lot in Pennsylvania and he lives in New Jersey. I did a Google search and there are about 2,758 E85 filling stations in the US and most are concentrated in the middle of the U.S. and there are only a few in Jersey. The prior owner did leave a couple of clues behind, though. He left a ski rack on the roof of the truck and never deleted his trips in the navigation system that revealed some extensive driving in Colorado, North Dakota, Minnesota, Michigan and Nova Scotia and he had access to many E85 stations because his travels were centralized in the “Corn Belt” states. It would be hard for me to believe that an ECM could calculate 73 percent alcohol from bad driving habits or prior lean conditions. I’m thinking the original owner was very fond of his Flex Fuel vehicle on his ski journeys across the US and possibly was the culprit to adapting his truck to be a compulsive alcoholic. It’s just beyond me how the vehicle was unable to adapt back to non E85 gas. Just when you think your game plan is set in stone to resolve a simple rich condition that you may have conquered many times in the past along comes a curveball of events that just is mind boggling. This is why I love this business. You just never stop learning. Hope this story hits home with you fellow technicians out there. Article Source: http://www.searchautoparts.com/automechanika-chicago/commitment-training/diagnosing-automotive-intoxication-chevy-avalanche?page=0,1#sthash.yX8uyyYT.dpuf ]]>

Your cars heating and cooling system – The Heater Core

Like the human heart, the heater core is the center of your cars circulatory system with large veins entering and exiting and small vessels inside. The life blood of your heating system is your vehicle’s coolant.

The heater core, which is located in the dashboard of your car, is really a miniaturized radiator. The heater core is used in heating the cabin of a vehicle. Hot coolant from the vehicle’s engine is passed through a winding tube of the core, a type of heat exchanger between coolant and cabin air. Fins attached to the core tubes serve to increase the surface for heat transfer to air that is forced past them, by a fan, thereby heating the passenger compartment.

What can go wrong with the heater core?

The heater core is made up of small piping that has numerous bends. Due to the size of the tube winding through the heater core any debris in your cooling system will end up clogging your heater core. Over time, dirt and other contaminants can build up in the coolant, or it may become acidic corroding the cooling system components themselves. Clogging of the piping may occur if the coolant system is not flushed or if the coolant is not changed regularly.

If clogging occurs the heater core will not work properly. Control valves may also clog or get stuck. Once clogged, the hot coolant can’t pass through the heater core, resulting in no heat for the cabin or defrost for the windshield

Another possible problem is a leak in one of the connections to the heater core. Electrolysis can cause excessive corrosion leading to the heater core rupturing. Coolant will spray directly into the passenger compartment followed by white colored smoke, a significant driving hazard.

Self-Diagnosis:

Engine coolant has a very distinctive sweet/oily smell. If you notice this smell inside your car, check for dampness around the passenger side floor/footwell. If you find wetness, you probably have a leaking heater core. A related symptom is a sticky film coming out of the defroster ducts and settling onto the windshield. This is one of those problems that starts out small and gets worse over time, so the sooner you can get it fixed, the better especially if it’s during winter time.

Like heart surgery heater core replacement should be left to the specialists

The heater core is usually located under the dashboard inside of the vehicle and is enclosed in the ventilation system’s ducting, servicing it often requires disassembling a large part of the dashboard. Removing your dash is not a job you want to leave to just anyone. Repair Pal estimates the labor cost to replace a heater core to be between $550 to $700 or about 5.5 to 7 hours of an experienced mechanics time. Find a shop the specializes in replacing heater cores.

What to do to prevent a “heart attack”?

If you are not experiencing any symptoms of a damaged heater core now is the time to act to help avoid a problem in the future. Car manufacturers recommend that you change the radiator fluid in your vehicle every 24,000 to 36,000 miles or every 24 to 36 months. However, your personal driving habits will also determine the frequency of needed radiator fluid changes. If you drive your vehicle in extremely hot temperatures like we had in Reno last summer, you may want to consider changing the fluid once a year or every 12,000 to 15,000 miles.

Also, you can unscrew the pressure cap and look at the liquid inside the reservoir or radiator, depending on the type of system you have. Coolant can be green, greenish yellow, orange, red, or blue, but is the liquid clear, or is stuff floating around in it? Does it look rusty? If the answer to either question is yes it’s time for a cooling system service.

If you are past the recommended mileage or your coolant looks funky you should consider the manufacturer’s recommended cooling system maintenance service at a trusted shop in your area. If you are having any concerns about your cooling system, experiencing any symptoms of a damaged heater core, or just lack of heating you should take it to your local trusted shop for a heating system diagnostic testing.

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The importance of buying the right tires for your car

If you have never had to change the tires on your vehicle before, it can feel like quite a challenge if you don’t know what tires your vehicle needs. There are many factors to consider when it comes to changing your tires including price, brand, comfort, appearance, and safety: things that should all be on your checklist. If your car was brand new when you bought it, it is likely that the tires you need are the same as the ones you had to start with. This makes the job fairly simple; as you know which tires you need, the only other job you need to do is find someone reliable to fit them for you. Different vehicles are fitted with different types of tires that are specific to each vehicle. Factors depending on where you live, your typical weather conditions and terrain will all affect the type of tire that you need so it is important to ask a specialist about your tires, as they can advise you depending on all of the above factors. The cost of your new tires will very much depend on your vehicle and tire type. If it was used when you bought it, you may be able to find the name of your tires in your handbook. If you don’t have that information, it is a good idea to do your research before you jump into anything. You can find information from a local dealership or even through the internet. It is also important to check the tires when you buy a used car, as the vehicle could be fitted with the wrong tires so it is a good idea to replace them quickly with the correct tires. Knowing what tires you need is also important because it helps you for the next time you need to change them, meaning you can get replacement tires quickly. There are exceptions, however; some vehicles allow you to have different types of tires. It is important that you research beforehand and that you know for certain that they can be fitted to your vehicle safely. Your tires should be replaced when the tread falls below the legal minimum. In the U.S Most states require a minimum of 2/32 of an inch (approximately 1.6 mm) of tread. If you are pulled over by the police and they are below the minimum legal tread depth you could end up with points on your license and a fine. If they are not up to the standard it will also mean that your vehicle will fail its yearly inspection where it’s required by law. It is important that you carry out regular checks on your tires to make sure that they are in the best condition. These checks can be carried out at home and involve looking for bulges, scratches, general wear and tear and even objects that could have punctured the tires such as sharp stones or nails.]]>

Automotive Repair Is Inevitable, But These Tricks Can Help

Automotive repair is inevitable, even for newer cars with less mechanical issues. For those who own older cars, routine maintenance is vital in avoiding major automotive repairs. Once a major part or system in the vehicle needs repairs, it could cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars to get back on the road again. A good way to avoid expensive automotive repairs is to have a trusted mechanic who is familiar with your car. Having a good mechanic on your side can be very helpful when it comes to regular maintenance because they are familiar with your car’s needs and can provide good preventative maintenance. Good preventative maintenance can help prevent a major breakdown. Furthermore, your repairs might be a little less expensive if there is a breakdown because a regular mechanic can more easily figure out the cause. There are many different automotive repair shops you can choose from and finding a mechanic shouldn’t be that difficult. However, finding a trustworthy mechanic’s shop that can do quality work is key. There are a few techniques and tips you can employ in order to find a good mechanic. The most important thing to remember when looking for a good mechanic to perform affordable quality work is to never wait until you have a vehicle breakdown to find an auto mechanic. This is one of the biggest mistakes a vehicle owner can make because, in the event of a major breakdown, they panic and simply hire the first mechanic they find in the phone book or online to diagnose and fix the vehicle. Many times, the repairs can cost more because the vehicle owner does not have the time to shop around for an affordable mechanic. If you look for a mechanic ahead of time, you are more likely to find one who is both skilled and more affordable. Finding a mechanic through word-of-mouth recommendations is one of the best ways to find a good mechanic. If you have a friend with an older car that runs well, you can find out who their mechanic is to begin the search for an auto repair shop. If you cannot find an auto repair shop through direct word-of-mouth recommendations, you can check you local listings online. Searching online can be helpful because mechanic listings online will also include customer reviews that will give you a better idea of who well that particular shop or mechanic can service your car. You can also educate yourself on automotive repair in order to avoid major problems and to have more knowledge on automotive repair. Automotive education can help you to better understand preventative car care needs in order to avoid major repairs. Furthermore, when you take your car to a mechanic for servicing you will have the advantage of knowing if the mechanic is credible, simply by knowing what type of issues your car has. Automotive repair can be expensive, but some of this expense can be avoided if you have a good mechanic that can perform regular preventative maintenance. ]]>